A Hilltop Retreat with Heart

P erched above the Banepa–Panauti road in Kavre, Thumki Resort is not the rustic hill lodge I had imagined. Instead, it reveals itself as a contemporary yet soulful retreat—peaceful, warm, and full of character despite being a new property.

Just a few hours from inner-city Kathmandu—traffic and photo stops aside—Thumki stretches across the Balthali valley, where terraces of jade-green fields meet forested slopes under wide, blue skies. It's where your breathing changes the moment you step in.

First Impressions: A Hilltop Oasis

The road to Balthali climbs steadily, passing rolling hills, stepped villages, and paddy fields. Before you even spot the resort, a small hillside village of cream and red-brick houses comes into view. The welcome was warm and unhurried—lassi served as a welcome drink, smiles generously offered. The owner, Laxman Neupane, came out personally to greet us. “We built Thumki out of passion, not as a business,” he said. “We wanted everyone who comes here to feel part of nature again.”

Woodsmoke drifted through the crisp air. In the distance, a staff member prepared tea as birdsong filled the valley. The rooms were simple, clean, and inviting. Our room may not be luxurious, but it had everything we needed: fresh linen, an en-suite shower, reliable Wi-Fi, and a window that opened to sweeping views of the valley. Each cottage-style room stood independently—some with balconies, others with garden-facing sit-outs. Simple wooden furniture and thoughtful spacing gave each unit a sense of privacy. In the evenings, I would sit by the window with a cup of milk tea, watching the fog roll gently over the terraces below. If views matter to you, choose a room on the upper terrace facing east as the lower ones overlook the garden and may miss the first light of dawn.

Dining: Homestyle Nepali Warmth

The restaurant and terrace quickly became our favorite spots. The kitchen does not aim for sophistication but focuses instead on freshness and honesty serving flavorful meals made from organic vegetables grown on-site or sourced from nearby farmers. Their dal bhat was as homely as it gets—simple, soulful, and deeply satisfying. That evening, we gathered around a small bonfire in the garden with a youth couple from Kathmandu and two French hikers. On weekends, live music adds to the ambience, just as it did during our stay. Everyone agreed: this place felt just right. “We want people to taste Nepal here—not somewhere else,” said Neupane. “That’s why we use local spices, local hands, and local hearts.

Breakfast the next morning was equally delightful—fresh fruit, millet roti, sautéed vegetables, dahi chiura, and steaming tea or coffee against a serene valley backdrop. Eggs and sausages were available for non-vegetarian guests.

Grounds and Ambience

Compact yet thoughtfully designed, the resort feels both intimate and expansive. The property is dotted with flower beds, shaded forest paths, and rooftop spaces suitable for yoga, quiet reading, or simply soaking in the stillness. From the third floor, you can see distant hills and, on clear days, glimpses of the Himalayan range. Even when clouds roll in, the mist weaving through the fields below gives the landscape a soft, timeless charm.

Facilities & Amenities

Though designed as a peaceful holiday escape, Thumki Resort blends leisure with functionality. It has quietly become a preferred spot not only for vacationers, but also for small business retreats and social gatherings. A fully equipped conference room allows teams to host meetings in a serene atmosphere away from city noise. Convenience has been thoughtfully considered—there is ample free parking, and a cozy bar and restaurant serving both local and international cuisines. Outdoor patios and garden corners provide tranquil spaces for morning coffee or reflective evenings.

Staff & Service

This is where Thumki truly shines. Every staff member we met was kind, attentive, and genuinely eager to make guests feel at home. Many are local residents who work proudly at the resort. When I requested an early breakfast before leaving for Panauti, they packed it carefully for me to take along. Small gestures like these linger long after you have left. “Our staff are local—born around these hills. They know this land better than any map. That’s what makes it special,” Neupane added.

Activities & Local Experiences

Thumki Resort is perfect for travelers spot for short outings and breathtaking valley vistas. The resort can arrange guided hikes, picnics, and village tours on request, making every experience from Thumki both seamless and memorable.

Weather & Travel Tips

I visited in September, when post-monsoon greenery blanketed the valley, though clouds often lingered behind the hills. For clear skies and Himalayan views, plan your visit between October and March. Winter mornings can be chilly but stunning. From May to July, the air turns humid, yet the forests come alive, offering a refreshing city escape. The road from Banepa to Balthali has narrow turns, so first-time visitors should aim to arrive before dark.

The Verdict: Heart Over Hype

Thumki Resort may never be a five-star property—and that’s exactly its charm. It offers something richer: authenticity, stillness, and a sense of belonging. Here, luxury is not defined by chandeliers or jacuzzis, but by the crow of a rooster at dawn, fog settling on a hillside, and a host who greets you with a quiet, heartfelt “Welcome home”.

One evening, sitting beside Neupane as the sun dipped, he said: “People think they’re leaving the city—but they end up here.” And I couldn’t have said it better myself.

This article was first published in the November 2025 edition of New Business Age magazine.